June 27, 2008 (Friday) 10:00 P.M.
Day 5
A day of Maasai tradition
We began the day by interviewing Paulo, Peter, Lekuba, Urunda, Tauta, Alais, and Lemaria, the Maasai who have shared their campsite with us the past two days. We learned about the daily routines of the Maasai and the ways in which they have been affected by the Bushmeat crisis. We also enjoyed a final farewell dance before we boarded the Land Rovers and left Ol Doinyo Sambu.
We reached a watering hole near a Maasai tree-house, where we saw more swarms of Quelea quelea, an impala herd, and another Tawny eagle. Soon after, we settled down for lunch under a large Sausage Tree (it’s real, look it up). We relaxed by climbing the tree, cutting its fruit with a machete, and taste-testing it before we ate. After lunch, we left for for Emboreet, a Maasai village. In route, we saw more impala, zebra, giraffe, and a Secretary bird. When we arrived at the village, the Maasai graciously allowed us to observe some of their rituals. |
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The next day was an important one because a number of Maasai boys were to be circumcised. There were many festivities and ceremonies that preceded the circumcision event. Warriors danced in a large group and men and women played a “capture the flag”-like game in which players battled for a piece of meat. We also met the chairman of Emboreet and befriended several Maasai children before leaving the area. We were honored that the Maasai allowed us to join their ceremony and take pictures freely, a privilege rarely enjoyed by tourists.
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After changing a punctured tire on the way to camp, we had the good fortune to see a cheetah (duma) and her three cubs. As daylight faded, we watched the cheetah move stealthily through the grass. It walked onto a termite mound and looked around alertly, aware of, but seemingly unthreatened by our presence. This extraordinary experience marked our first encounter with a large savannah predator.
We arrived at camp at nightfall and were greeted by a large group of Maasai, many of whom were excited children. We ate dinner and watched a ceremony in which a goat was slaughtered. After talking around the campfire with our companions, we went to sleep to prepare for the next day’s adventure. |
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