June 25, 2005 (Wednesday) 8:00 P.M.

Day 3

Through beautiful savannah to camp

The day’s beginning was a time of reflection and anticipation. A few new bruises popped up from yesterday’s accident but our group spirit was much improved.  After a good night’s sleep in Arusha’s The Outpost hotel, we were anxious to set out for the bush.

By late morning, rooms had been cleared, camera lenses prepped, emails sent, and luggage stowed near the hotel’s gates.  To everyone’s relief, two fully equipped Land Rovers pulled into the dirt turnaround. With comfortable seats, windows all around, and top hatches for quality Safari rubbernecking (not to mention seatbelts), our new transports dwarfed our original transport.  Killerai, Miggie, and Simon helped load the equipment.  We said goodbye to The Outpost, left Arusha behind, and began to imagine the picturesque savannah.  Emotions stirred as we drove past the site of yesterday’s crash on the city’s outskirts. Then, quite suddenly, the scene outside our windows began to change. Arusha’s crowded streets became scattered villages, and worn whitewashed concrete structures were replaced by boma, traditional Maasai homesteads.

Our lunch stop revealed the first glimpse of beautiful, natural Africa when Simon, our Maasai guide and driver, spotted the trip’s first mammal. Seeing a Dik dik was very fitting since this small antelope was central to our presentation at the BIO 2008 International convention in San Diego.  In a clearing at the side of the highway, we photographed everything from large vistas to small insects. After a quick meal, we continued on our journey.  Bomas became more and more isolated and local clothing became more traditional. Khaki pants and miscellaneous American clothing had filled Arusha’s open air market.  Now we began to see Maasai shepherds clad in red shukas (traditional short robes) herding their livestock. As we moved along the highway, excited local children waved from their doorsteps.

Three hours after leaving The Outpost, we were surrounded by grassy savannah. Ancient baobabs and beautiful acacia trees dotted the landscape. We discovered Vervet monkeys hidden in the brush and then, incredibly, other wildlife began to emerge. We spotted a Secretary bird, “Go-away” birds, shrikes, an Eastern Pale Chanting goshawk, a Hammerkop, Love birds, Tawny eagles,  a Pigmy falcon, Koribustards, a Von der Deckens hornbill, Grant’s and Thompson’s gazelle, and wildebeest. Two of our most memorable moments included watching a herd of wildebeest rushing across the plains and thousands of Red-billed Quelea quelea that filled the sky like swarming locusts.

Just as the sun began to set through the acacia branches, the day’s highlight unfolded.  Plains zebras and Maasai giraffes appeared simultaneously. One juvenile giraffe and a young zebra ate and trotted alongside their elders. Night fell quickly on the Savannah.  Killerai and Simon turned on headlights to guide us through the thick brush that lead to our camp. Finally, we made it to the Ol Doinyo Sambu Wildlife Refuge, where we thoroughly enjoyed a hot meal under the stars and a relaxing night by the campfire. Tomorrow our journey continues in Tarangire National Park.

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