| July 6, 2008 (Sunday) 10:00 P.M. Day 14 Ngorongoro: Life in the Caldera Our Karatu dreams were interrupted at 5:00 A.M. by the cries of Killerai, our “Tanzanian rooster.” For most of us, that was much too early. After a quick breakfast, we left our Karatu campsite for Ngorongoro Crater, a conservation area that is one of Tanzania’s most famous landmarks. The park opened at 6:00 A.M., so we were able to enter before the crater became too crowded with tourists. As we passed through the densely wooded area beyond the entrance, we saw a number of Cape buffalo and African elephants. Like Nou Forest, the region was covered in a morning fog that eventually unfolded to reveal a magnificent view as we descended into the crater. The interior of Ngorongoro gives the impression of an ancient walled city, with 260 square kilometers of savannah surrounded by high ridges. Within this geological wonder, East African wildlife travel and graze freely. We were welcomed by enormous herds of Plains zebra and Blue wildebeest that numbered in the thousands -- the largest groups we have seen so far. Although these herbivores were exciting, our interest peaked a moment later when we sighted two Maasai lions, a male and a female, sitting in the distance. Our guides told us they were a breeding pair, known locally as “honeymooners.” This explanation proved to be unnecessary when the two began to mate before our eyes. Though the process lasted only about ten seconds, it was an amazing spectacle we were fortunate to have witnessed. We learned that the mating routine can occur up to two thousand times in one month! As the day wore on, we saw an incredible diversity of birds and mammals, including Spotted hyena, Thompson’s gazelle, Grant’s gazelle, River hippopotamus, Black rhinoceros, Black-backed jackal, and various flamingo species. We stopped at a picnic site in the crater, where we observed Guinea fowl, Superb starlings, and Black kites while enjoying our lunch. We saw another pride of lions napping lazily in the afternoon sun. Another sight unique to this locale was the cloud of white dust rising from the soda lake that provided an amazing backdrop for herds of wildebeest and zebra.
Our ascent from Ngorongoro was filled with dramatic vistas overlooking the caldera. We returned to our Karatu campsite and met Deus Cosmos and his friend, Stephanie Riley. Deus is the Roots & Shoots director for much of Northern Tanzania, including the shores of Lake Victoria and the Serengeti. We had already had the good fortune to meet him and share good times in San Diego. He is an inspiration to all of us. Deus and Stephanie have joined our group for the remainder of the expedition.
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