July 5, 2008 (Saturday) 6:00 PM
Day 13
North of the Hadza and east of Eden
Hujambo everyone, or “emtanna” as the Hadza say. Due to difficulties with our internet connection in Yaeda Valley, we sent yesterday’s post earlier than usual. So, we will describe the events that occurred after our last post.
After several hours of relaxation following an arduous hunting trek with the Hadza, our group was invited to practice archery. We were allowed to use the same bows and arrows the Hadza use to bring down Cape buffalo and giraffe. For hours, we stood in line, firing at cardboard box targets some fifty yards away. Our efforts must have looked comical or even pitiful to the practiced and skilled Hadza. Arrows whistled as they flew towards the target, spiraled skyward, or grazed rocks that littered the road around the box. Some time later, Megan scored a solid hit, which resulted in considerable disappointment among the male participants. However, several of us (Sean, Sam, Dr. Vavra, and Alex) managed to make our marks as the sunlight slowly faded.
After another fine bush dinner, we all sat beside the fire and listened as the Hadza sang and danced to their cultural music, which included melodic tunes on a two-stringed violin-like instrument called a Zeze. As with the Maasai, we were expected to present a song from our culture. We debated for several minutes before deciding on a HTH rendition of John Jacob Jingle-Heimer-Shmidt. Megan sang several songs and the fireside audience was very impressed with her voice. The Hadza had many questions about the meaning of each song.
After the songfest ended, we began a discussion concerning our respective cultures. Endeko, a passionate young 22-year old Hadza man, gave us parting words that we shall always recall. He told us of the happiness we had brought his people by making the long journey to Yaeda Valley to meet them and see how they lived. His final thoughts were the most touching of all. He said, “We are people…just like you” and he pointed out that the Hadza have feelings and emotions, just as any other man or woman. Endeko’s words provided a simple truth to all of us about how much we share in common. It made all of us yearn for the simple and primal aspects of life. |
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Late at night, several of us went with three Hadza men on a three-hour hunt. We searched the hard pan of the valley floor, stream beds, and thorn scrub flats but oour quest resulted in a single Dik-dik sighting. The HTH hunting companions watched the Hadza club and shoot several birds. After returning to the camp fire, each of us reflected on the primitive ways of the Hadza.
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This morning we packed our bags and tents. Nearly a dozen of the Hadza and members of our own group pushed the supply truck. Then it was time for goodbyes. We shook hands and said our “asante asanas” (thank yous) and “kwaheris” (goodbyes) before we began the washboard drive towards Ngorongoro.
The day moved slowly. The first half was spent driving down dirt roads through villages and bouncing over bumpy roads. As we left the pristine Yaeda Valley, we immediately noticed the change in land use. Our two battered but resilient Land Rovers reached a town, where we stopped for gas and several tire changes. Here, we parted ways with our medical expert, Daktari Sam Bozzette. On the way to our new camp, we stopped at a curio shop to purchase souvenirs. |
Tonight’s campsite differs greatly from others we have experienced on our journey. The camp is situated at the side of the road rather than in the wilderness. Tomorrow, we plan to leave for Ngorongoro Crater, a national park set in an amazing caldera that contains 100 square miles of rich habitat and wildlife. Before the crater collapsed long ago, it was the size of Mt. Kilimanjaro. As we watched the sun set over the crater’s rim, we were very excited about tomorrow’s adventure. Tonight our dreams will be filled with visions of the Tanzanian Garden of Eden. |
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