July 3, 2008 (Thursday) 10:00 P.M.
Day 11
Bees, bows, and baobab
We began this morning at our campsite in Yaeda Valley, home to the Hadza people. The Hadza tribe is made up of about one thousand members who live in sustainable harmony with the environment. According to oral tradition, these hunter-gatherers have occupied the area for over ten thousand years. They live entirely off the land. Their primary diet consists of roots, honey, fruits and berries, and some wild game. They do not have domesticated plants or animals. The Hadza are accomplished in archery and musical performance but remain untouched by technology or modern society. Observing them is like looking into the past because they live much like human populations lived several thousand years ago.
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After breakfast, we walked to the Hadza village, which contained neither buildings nor tents. The Hadza are content to sleep beneath the trees. A small ring of brush was the only evidence of their presence. We watched as Hadza women dug for tubers beneath nearby trees using digging sticks, one of mankind’s oldest tools. We were even able to lend some assistance with this daily task. After that, the men found a beehive. They used burning brush (which they had set afire from embers in mere seconds) to smoke the bees out of their home so they could get at the delicious honey. We had never tasted such fresh honey and were delighted by its sweet and unique flavor. We also tasted the honey of stingless bees. The Hadza roasted tubers that tasted like bitter potatoes. Finally, they taught us which berries were good for eating and how to eat them. |
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After lunch, aerobics, and interviews, we listened to a Hadza man sing and play beautifully on a violin-like instrument. This was one of the greatest musical experiences we have had on the trip thus far. We also watched as the Hadza women made a drink called kunywa – a mixture of embele tree berries and baobab fruit. The sweet, smoothie-like beverage was greatly appreciated in the hot afternoon sun. Finally, the Hadza showed us how to make arrows. They straighten the arrows with their teeth and then, by using impala tendons, attach guinea fowl feathers. The Hadza surprised us by offering their artful weapons as gifts when they were finished. |
Later, we took a final walk to a nearby baobab tree. When in season, the trees produce tasty fruit. However, the trees are notoriously difficult to climb. The Hadza remedy this problem by cutting wooden pegs from other trees and driving them into the baobab trunk to form makeshift ladders. Climbing the ancient African tree in such a manner was exhilarating.
We spent one more evening around the communal campfire as we enjoyed an encore performance by the skilled Hadza violinist. Tomorrow, we plan to leave early to accompany the Hadza on a morning hunt, so it’s time for sleep.
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